Easy Herbs: 15/15: Lovage

Fifteen Easy Herbs
No. 15 Lovage
Here is an efficient, multi-purpose herb. A small amount of chopped leaves and tender stems is a quick substitute for celery; its flavor is so strong, you just don’t need very much to do the job. An unexpected added bonus: the large flower umbels are the favorite feeding ground of the wasps that will fly out to the garden, where they’ll lay eggs in tomato worms, and the larva will consume the worms!
How to grow it:
Some sources advise planting lovage near running water, but that is asking TOO much. It grows just fine in the sun, inland, although you will want to keep it well watered, in a fertile soil that is rich in organics (compost, well-rotted manure). It is the last of our “Moist Herbs,” which included basil, cilantro, chives, dill lemon balm, mint and parsley.
How to eat it:
Once you taste potato salad with minced lovage leaves and stems, you’ll not need celery there again. Dry the leaves and stems, and keep them in a dark jar for winter vegetable soups and meat stews. Get points at a summer luncheon: The hollow stems are elegant drinking straws for tomato juice!

Lovage Soup
From Fresh Herb Cooking by Linda Dannenberg. Stewart Tabori & Chang, New York 2001
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 leeks, white part only, minced
2 white onions, chopped
4 baking potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
3 cups chicken stock
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup shredded lovage leaves
3 cups half-and-half

In a heavy saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. Stir in the leeks and onion and cook until they are soft and slightly translucent, but not browned, about 4 minutes. Add the potatoes, stock and salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are very soft, about 40 minutes.
Meanwhile, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a small skillet over medium heat, stir in the lovage; cover, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook until the lovage is softened, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Process the potato mixture in a blender or food processor, then transfer to a large saucepan. Add the lovage and the half-and-half, stir to combine, then place over medium heat until very hot, but not boiling. Serve immediately in warmed soup bowls.
Serves 6 to 8.